Mechanics of Pruning

CORRECTIVE PRUNING improves tree form to establish straight stems.  Trees with multiple leaders (as a result of damage tot he terminal bud or main leader) need to have one shoot selected (largest, closest to center) to become the central leader.  Usually other shoots are removed, but caution should be taken when removing the undesirable leaders.  Usually cutting them several inches from the tree stem will allow the main leader to strengthen and the stub will diminish in size.  These "stubs" should be removed a year or two later.

Another option is to pull two opposing shoots together towards the center of the tree, tape them together with duct tape, and cut the support shoot just above the tape to stunt it.

COPPICING: Cut tree 1" above ground to remove a severely deformed tree and to produce a more desirable stem from the stump sprouts.  Best months to coppice are November-March.  April-May; September-October are "ok".  Don't coppice in June, July or August.

LATERAL/SIDE BRANCH PRUNING removes branches for several reasons: (1) improve tree form; (2) promote quicker sealing of the wound; and (3) to produce a high quality wood.  Branches to remove include dead branches, damaged branches, and larger limbs affecting the form of the tree.

Pruning should be prioritized! First: look up into the crown and remove branches which may be competing with the main leader/main stem. Second: remove large, lateral branches before they get too big.  Third: remove branches with tight angles to the tree stem.  Fourth: remove dead and dying limbs.

Some general rules for pruning (1) do not prune more than one-third of the live crown; (2) do not prune more than one-half the height of the tree; (3) prune dead limbs any time, live limbs when dormant; (4) obtain a better "balance" of the tree crown.

When the stem above a crotch is about the same size or larger than the chosen leader, remove the undesired branch several inches from the stem to let the tree produce more wood before making your final cut (1-2 years later).  Avoid making flush cuts!  Pruning wounds seal faster when cuts are made outside the branch collar (a swollen area at the base of the branch).

PROPER PRUNING INVOLVES THREE CUTS, SO AS TO AVOID BARK TEARING.

FIRST UNDERCUT THE BRANCH ABOUT 3 INCHES FROM THE COLLAR - This cut, made at point A on the diagram, should be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep - this helps to prevent bark peeling.

CUT 2 IS MADE ABOUT 3 1/2 INCHES FROM THE CROTCH - This cut, made at point B on the diagram, removes the branch leaving a small stub.

CUT 3 REMOVES THE STUB AND PRESERVES THE BRANCH COLLAR - This cut is usually downward C-D, but depending on tools, branch angles, and limb size, might be better if cut upward, D-C.